There’s nothing better than getting away with the man in my life and, for the most part, we’re pretty compatible when it comes to travel. We usually agree on the destination, accommodation and even add-on adventures. But when it comes to the ‘spa thing,’ I stand (or lie) alone. Brent would rather be sweating over a treadmill than under hot rocks, and would definitely take an Elliptical machine over a eucalyptus steam. Well, on this recent Maui sojourn to three different areas, my skeptical hubby does an about face (and body). As well as going for the romance, he becomes one of the ‘lomilomi’ converted.

For our first stay, we’re in search of total reprieve, away from holiday hoopla and throngs of tourists. Even though Maui has become a popular hot spot, we discover that there’s still such a place. The heavenly town of Hana retains the refined Old World feel and fits our bill to a tee. The reason, you ask? The highway that spans from the airport’s locale of Kahului to this eastern coast hamlet is not much wider than a glorified footpath. Within a two hour time frame, we veer around six hundred curves, creep over fifty one lane bridges, and yield to countless on-comers. Yet, in spite of the adrenaline rush and need for Gravol, the hair-raising journey is worth every minute. Our slender road loops through a feathery rainforest where we’re canopied by vine-dripping Banyons, kissed by trickling waterfalls, and welcomed by a pot of gold at the end of numerous rainbows.

Hana Highway carves through a Lush Rainforest.

The secluded treasure trove of Hana is steeped with just as much history as beauty. It was once home to a thriving sugar plantation and, after business dried up in 1943, the land was purchased by Paul Fagan, a highfalutin Californian.

“He not only established the present-day working ranch,” we’re informed, after finally reaching our resort, “but opened Hotel Hana-Maui. Welcome!” The friendly receptionist wears a purple orchid behind one ear and greets us with a fragrant lei, tropical drink and winning smile.

As well as a rundown on the past, she provides a map of the present, and by the look at the embracing acreage, it’ll come in handy. Asphalt walkways weave over the terrain like silver threads, and lace through the quaint community of 1,800 residents. They link up posh accommodations that view either a rugged shoreline or garden blooms, to chichi activities, dining options and amenities.

Deckside gaze from our our sea ranch cottage.

There’s also another gem that will soon perk up my senses. Just a short stroll beyond our check-in counter and koi-filled ponds, is a sanctuary that goes by the name of Honua Spa. As well as a chilly cold plunge and lava rock whirlpool there are more than half a dozen treatment rooms offering everything from traditional Thai to locally-infused therapies. “How ‘bout joining me,” I comment to my dubious better-half, when pre-booking the Tropical Hana Blend. “After I’m massaged by modalities we could go for a little duo decadence.” Brent chuckles at the gesture, finds out where the gym is located, and politely passes. 

Although it’s easy to hibernate in our plantation-style retreat during our stay, temptations wait outside the door. The nearby main street of Hana is flanked by a handful of souvenir-worthy shops, and hugging up to its heritage perimeters are beautifully-coloured stretches of sand. We explore the golden crescent of Hamoa Beach, stroll the red cinder surface of Kaihalulu and check out the black sandy boulevard of Waianapanapa State Park. Some attract surfers by the score. Others are perfect spots for picnicking.
 

Mesmirized by the seven pools at Oleo gulch.

On our final day, we discover one last tropical splash just a few kilometers from town. Deep from within the jungle-draped hills of Haleakala National Park is a series of waterfalls that plummet into seven inviting pools. Though at times, these reservoirs are popular swimming holes, during our visit the water is high and turbulent and we admire the scene at a distance.
 
For the second leg of our Maui journey we perform a one-hundred and eighty-degree turn, both literally and figuratively. Not only does our Budget runabout do an about face, but we pick up the pace once we reach our west coast stop –by several notches.

Sun worshipping Ka'anapali style.

The resort icon of  is as stimulating as Hana is serene. It nestles between the sapphire Pacific and championship golf greens and is backed by verdant hillsides. Although once a thriving sugar cane region, big wig hotel chains, like the Westin Maui now dominate this sensuous stretch of shoreline.

Westin's glistening pools are fashioned with waterfalls, slides, grottos and caves.

The hotel’s two towers hover over an 87,000 square-foot aquatic wonderland, where five glistening pools are fashioned with waterfalls, slides, grottos and caves.  Indulgence also comes in other forms –although Brent and I share entirely different perspectives. While his muscles burn and build during a Westin Workout, mine are massaged and kneaded by sixteen well-oiled stones. Under Jeff’s skilled hands, my stiff limbs relax, dry cells are lubricated and every gnarled kink is ironed out. This specific therapy goes by the name of Pohaku, and incorporates hot basalt stones with Westin’s Heavenly massage. It’s designed to get rid of all tension, and after the hour of euphoria, I stroll away feeling like a rag doll. Brent, on the other hand, evolves from his fitness session, hot, taut and glistening with sweat.

“The spa caters to couples as well,” I comment, while showing him a brochure. “We could go for some bilateral bliss under a poolside Cabana.” Although he heads in the right direction, it’s for a different kind of adventure.

Having a whale of a shopping spree at Whalers Village.

A pedestrian boardwalk parallels our Ka'anapali beach front and paves the way to lots of options. We browse through the sixty odd shops at Whalers Village, check out the underwater smorgasbord while snorkeling at Black Rock, and get continually lured by aromas that waft from sidewalk eateries. A few also become popular places when Happy hour rolls around.

“It’s quite spectacular, isn’t it,” the burly bartender says when placing another umbrella cocktail in front of us. “After all, where can you enjoy a sensational sunset while sipping a marvelous Mai Tai?”  We’ve pulled up to the bar of the Westin’s Tropica Restaurant where flickering tiki torches shed light over a tumbling waterfall. The sun has just set, and silhouetted against a crimson sky are the inky islands of Lana`i and Moloka`i. We sip in silence, taking in the splendor and reflect on the past whirlwind stay at Ka'anapali.

Our grand finale Maui stomping ground is the glitzy area of Kapalua where the high rollers hang out. And I’m not just talking waves. As well as stars and celebs, we join the pros like Woods and Wier who are lured to the  and the luscious holes of greenery right outside the door. A total of five golf courses grace this area and a number of tees border the property’s expansive acreage. The surf plummets onto the other, and in between are enough amenities to appease any Maui castaway.


Putting practice at the Ritz.

We spend our time in idle reverie playing shuffleboard, tennis, and practicing on the nine-hole putting green. And when the surf is up, we head beachside to catch a piece of the action. Calories can also be expended, of course, in Ritz-Carlton’s fitness centre, where there is every sweat-provoking machine imaginable. Although Brent does his daily jaunt while I stretch at Pilates and yoga, when it’s time for my whole meal pampering deal, his eyebrows surprisingly raise with interest. “How ‘bout some partnership pleasure?” he says, with a chuckle. I can’t believe he’s going to concede. After witnessing my recent rewards of renewal this spa-skeptic husband of mine is finally ready for some heavenly bliss!

The magic begins next to Brent’s favourite hangout and while I prepare for my journey to paradise, I wonder what’s going on in Brent’s mind. Will he be jamming out by now –thinking that all this fluff stuff is just for females? My thoughts of delusion are interrupted by my therapist, Erica, who greets me with a smile.


Therapists Erica & Jessica after their
massaging magic act.

“You and your husband will have the first phase of your Kapalua Embrace in the outdoor garden hale.” She leads me along a flagstone path to a Polynesian hut that is encircled by a riot of tropical flora. Brent enters, donning just a robe, (no sweat gear) looking a little uncertain. He’s led by Jessica, his professional pamper pleaser. And over the next two hours, we succumb to Utopian joys while lying side by side. The therapists work in synchronicity, like a pair of well-versed musicians, and while personalizing the Rainforest Rhapsody to meet our needs, the harmony abounds. They begin with an application of propolis, a silky smooth honey bi-product that’s high in anti-oxidants and guaranteed to replenish aging pores. With any luck it’ll knock off a few years.  Erica’s hands are proficient but gentle and while being masked and lomilomi massaged I drift in and out of trance-land.


Partnership Bliss at the Ritz.

I figure Brent must be headed to the same place, based on the moans of merriment and occasional snore that erupts from his cot. We’re both swaddled in blankets like rectified mummies before another scrumptious application is applied. This time, the delectable aroma is coconut, and after more rubbing and rolling we eventually resurrect smelling sweeter than a pair of Hawaiian honey bees in mating season. Although speechless and just wearing a dreamy gaze, Brent doesn’t have to respond. I can see he’s been transformed. And after our peppermint Pedicure the following morning, we board the plane where more truth is revealed. For light reading, I carry on a guide book of other Hawaiian Islands. Brent clutches his own selection of light reading. Among it is one
of the leading spa magazines.

Photos by Brent Cassie
--------------------------------------
Resources: 

Maui Visitors Bureau  
http://www.visitmaui.com/

How to get there:
Harmony Airways
http://harmonyairways.com/

Where to stay:
Hotel Hana Maui
http://www.hotelhanamaui.com/

The Westin Maui Resort and Spa
http://www.westinmaui.com/

The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua
http://www.ritzcarlton.com/resorts/kapalua/